Materials
Our guide to the materials we work with
Clothing production burdens the environment. Much. That is why it is important that we think about it when we produce our clothes. The first step is to make clothes that, in terms of quality and design, have a long life. Next, production methods and materials are important.
If we are to burden nature as little as possible, it is essential that we use the materials that are most environmentally friendly and at the same time best suited for the product in question.
At ELSK, we are on an eternal journey towards finding the best production methods and how we can use our materials better. However, there are advantages and disadvantages to all materials. This page will guide you to choose the best materials, but also show you that producing clothes is complex and that the good choices often also have disadvantages.
Design and procurement
We have an ambition to create products that have the smallest possible footprint on the environment.
The first step in this is to design and create products which, based on quality and design, are long-lasting. The next step is to choose the materials and production methods that are most suitable for the product in question. In relation to which materials are best to use, it largely depends on the type of product you are making.
An important element is also to ensure that the product can be reused after its useful life.
Materials:
When we design the products, the first step is to ensure that the product will be at the top in terms of quality and lifespan. The materials have an important role in production and we have prepared a list below with the materials we use and the order in which we prioritize them. All materials have both advantages and disadvantages. Both in relation to the quality, but also in relation to the impact the individual material has on the climate/environment.
First choice:
Recycled cotton.
Recycled wool.
Recycled cashmere.
Regenerative organic cotton.
Organic Hemp.
Organic Flax.
Another choice:
Organic cotton (GOTS certified).
Wool (RWS certified).
Tencel Lyocell.
Tencel Modal
Left-over yarns or left-over meter goods. (Residues that are in surplus at the factories).
Third choice:
Econyl.
Recycled polyester / polyester / polyamide.
Bio-based polyester.
Conventional hemp.
Conventional linen.
No thanks!
We will not use the following materials in our production:
BCI cotton, silk, leather, fur, down, angora, mohair, cashmere, viscose, bamboo, polyester or conventional cotton.
Transportation:
All transport of goods from suppliers must be done by truck, train or ship. We do not use air transport.
Avoid as much as possible:
Conventional modal.
Elastane-Modal.
HANG ROADS
All our handles are made from sugar cane
Our hangtags are made of a very special material: sugar cane. Over the past decades, sugar cane has increasingly become a product used to make paper. More precisely, it is the by-product bagasse from the sugarcane that is used for production.
The method of turning sugar cane into paper is similar in many ways to the same method used to make ordinary paper.
THE METHOD IS AS FOLLOWS:
First of all, the sugar cane is drained of sugar. The part that remains after the drainage is called bagasse. The bagasse is then crushed into a powder mass, which is run through a treatment plant to separate stones and dirt. When the bagasse is crushed and cleaned, it is cooked in a large metal container. Next, the powder goes through a bleaching process to change its color from brown to white. Finally, it is run through machines to transform the powder into fine, thin paper.
By using a by-product from sugar production, the environmental impact is considerably reduced compared to if ordinary paper was used. Of course, it does not require trees to be felled either.
Corozo buttons
Drop the plastic
The buttons you see on our clothes are corozo buttons. These are made from the seeds of the corozo nut, which grows on palm trees in tropical areas such as Peru, Ecuador and Panama. These areas are controlled non-threatened areas.
Before the seeds form, the nut consists of a mass of kernels which contain a white liquid. This liquid hardens during the ripening phase and later turns into seeds. The seeds used to make the buttons contain fibers that are tightly wrapped around the seeds. This means that the seeds are very durable and have a certain hardness. With such properties, the seeds can compete with plastic. However, the Corozo buttons differ drastically from the plastic ones, as they are produced without chemical finishing, among other things. Therefore, the corozo buttons are a 100% natural product.
Since the seeds can vary in size, each button is completely unique in its composition. The buttons, with their good properties, are strong, at the same time that they do not weigh very much, and have a really nice appearance. In fact, the content of the corozo nut is also called vegetable ivory, as the color is very similar to animal ivory. However, there are no other similarities between vegetable and animal ivory, so you can calmly and with a clear conscience choose styles with corozo buttons.
ELSK uses corozo buttons, as these leave no footprint on the world and environment. In this way, we use a 100% natural material that we can vouch for. When the buttons are as strong and durable as plastic, there is no reason to choose the plastic buttons.
ORGANIC COTTON
Cotton is one of the world's most popular materials. The reason for this is that cotton is a soft but strong material that takes minimal damage when washed and keeps its shape.
However, conventional cotton is the world's most taxing crop and a large part of the world's pesticides are used for cotton. It is often grown in a mono-culture where the same field has the same crop over and over again. In the long run it destroys and torments the earth. At the same time, the energy and water consumption is incredibly high. By using organic cotton, you significantly cut down on a large number of the parameters that burden the environment with conventional cultivation. The majority of our styles consist to a greater or lesser extent of organic cotton.
Organic cotton is better for both you and the planet than conventional cotton is. The requirements regarding the degradability and toxicity of the products made from organic cotton are strict. Therefore, you avoid toxic chemicals and residues from pesticides and insecticides by using organic cotton.
To ensure that the organic cotton meets the highest standards, we only use cotton from certified suppliers. In the field itself where the cotton grows, organic cotton also ensures that there is a change of seat, thus preserving the high quality and diversity of the soil. In addition to the requirements for the environmental impact of the production of the cotton, the certification also sets strict social requirements, which, among other things, ensure that no child labor is used.
Having said that, organic cotton still puts a lot of strain, and has a high energy and water consumption. However, water consumption and energy consumption largely depend on the type of cotton used, where it grows and how close the cultivation is to the place where the cotton is to be further processed and subsequently made into one meter of goods.
Advantage:
> Less water during production than conventional.
> Grown from untreated seeds, which means they are not genetically modified.
> No harmful pesticides are used.
> Weeds are not eradicated with herbicides, but instead by hand.
> Soft fibres, and thus a soft material.
> Contains no harmful substances, and is therefore perfectly safe for you to wear against the skin.
> Natural fibre, which means it is 100% degradable unlike synthetic fibres.
Disadvantages:
> Still uses a lot of water in production.
> Cotton production requires a large area of land.
Recycled cotton
At ELSK, we not only use newly produced organic cotton, but also the recycled kind. Instead of producing brand new cotton – conventional or organic – recycled cotton products benefit from what was otherwise destined for waste. The recycled cotton consists of residual materials from factories and discarded or used products. When the residual materials are to be recycled, they are cut up mechanically, and thus converted into cotton fibres, after which it is mixed together again to form new material. However, the disadvantage of this process is that the fibers become shorter and less durable. Therefore, recycled cotton can rarely stand alone. Instead, it is often necessary to mix it with other materials in order to get a durable product by the metre.
Advantage:
> Fewer resources are used in the form of water and colour, among other things.
Disadvantages:
> Less durable, and must therefore be mixed with other material.
Recycled polyester
Polyester – also known as PES – is not a natural material like wool and cotton. Instead, it is a material that is synthetically produced in factories. In clothing, you most often see polyester mixed with other materials, such as cotton. If you look in some of your own clothes, you will definitely find a label that says something like 30% polyester and 70% cotton. The reason why polyester is mixed with the natural materials is that polyester has some desirable properties that you want to transfer to the natural materials. Polyester curls, e.g. very little, and has a very flexible structure. By mixing the materials, you get the best properties from both worlds.
At ELSK, we do not use newly produced polyester in our clothes. Instead, we use the recycled kind. By recycling polyester, a great deal is saved on chemical emissions, new petroleum does not have to be used, and up to 75% CO2 is saved in the process.
Recycled polyester is made from polyester material in the form of e.g. water bottles with PET stamp, waste polyester from production or polyester yarn. By e.g. using PET-stamped water bottles for recycled polyester reduces the number of plastic bottles that end up in the ocean, while at the same time significantly reducing the amount of oil and natural gas that must be used for plastic production in connection with new polyester.
Polyester is a popular material to recycle, as it can be reused in many different ways without losing its properties. Therefore, it is environmentally and health-wise much better to use than the newly produced kind.
Advantage:
> Less energy consumption than by producing new
> Has the same properties as newly produced polyester
> Emits 75% less CO2 than with normal production.
Disadvantages:
> Still contains plastic, which can result in microplastics and discharge of microplastic fibres
> Many items by the meter are not only made of pure polyester but are mixed with other materials and can therefore be difficult to recycle
> There is uncertainty in relation to the color after using recyclable materials such as e.g. plastic bottles.
SEACELL
Seacell is a material made from wood fibers and seaweed. This means that this is a 100% natural material that is exclusively produced from FSC-certified wood and seaweed. Both of these materials are renewable resources, and in their cultivation methods are used that save both energy and resources.
In the production of seacell, the same method is used as in the production of tencel.
Seacell contains more minerals and vitamins than any other natural material. Including, among other things, vitamin E and amino acids. In addition, it has antibacterial properties that, among other things, protect the skin and are good for people with skin problems.
In addition to the fact that seacell is made from renewable materials, it is also incredibly soft and comfortable to wear on the body. The material can be used in the production of many different types of clothing. Including underwear, sportswear and everyday wear.
Advantage:
> Comfortable and soft material
> Energy-saving and sustainable production processes
> Renewable resources
> Protects the skin.
Disadvantages:
> Not sure how much seaweed seacell contains - it can vary from delivery to delivery. You can expect up to 5%.
Tencel/Lyocell
Tencel – also known by the technical name lyocell – is among the most environmentally friendly materials. It is made of wood. You may wonder thoroughly how clothes can be produced from wood. Because isn't it the kind that stands out in the forest and is fairly massive? Yes it is. But from the robust wood, small fibers can be formed, which can be used in the production of clothes. The fibers are formed by chopping the wood into wood pulp, after which it dissolves in a closed, chemical process, and is subsequently converted into small fibers which must be rinsed and later spun into yarn. The fact that the chemical process takes place in a closed system means that 99.5% of the chemical substances are recycled from production to production. At the same time, the closed system ensures that no contaminated waste water flows into lakes, the sea etc.
Since tencel undergoes this process, it is called regenerated fibers or semi-synthetic fibers. Tencel is manufactured by the Austrian manufacturer Lenzing, and comes from sustainable forestry, which is FSC certified.
Although tencel is a material made from wood fibers, it does not sting or splinter. Instead, it is a soft material that has a good absorption and heat-conducting ability, and is incredibly comfortable to wear. If it is to be compared with another material, it can be compared with Viscose. However, Tencel is far better for the planet and requires far fewer resources than viscose.
Advantage:
> Soft and good absorption and thermal conductivity
> Produced in a closed system
> Sustainable forestry
> Antibacterial.
Disadvantages:
> The fibers may be weak from repeated wear
> Curls easily
> Can shrink.
Flax/Linen
The material flax comes from the cellulose fibers that are in the flax plant. It is therefore perfectly natural. The flax plant requires very little and grows quickly. It does not need large amounts of water or fertiliser, and it can grow in most places. Flax is hardy and can therefore cope with insects without any problems.
Flax is particularly suitable for summer clothes, as it is airy, breathable, absorbent and has good thermal conductivity. However, the heat-conducting abilities also mean that it can keep you warm in the winter. Don't let the lightness of the material fool you. It is incredibly strong, and you can be sure that products made from linen will last for many years.
Clothes made of linen are easily recognizable with their beautiful structure, which gives both a light and coarse look.
Advantage:
> The flax plant requires very little and grows quickly
> Light, breathable material
> Durable.
Disadvantages:
> Tendency to curl a lot
> High chance of it shrinking in the first wash.
> Is sensitive to stains.
Hemp
Hemp is at the top of the list in terms of materials that are gentlest on the earth. Hemp requires very little water and land to grow. In addition, all parts of the hemp plant can be used for different materials and products, which means that it is a plant with a large yield.
In addition to the fact that the hemp plant has a large yield and requires few resources to grow, hemp is good for use in clothing production because the fibers are both strong and long, which means that it is a durable material. With such a characteristic, clothing made from hemp often also has a more raw expression.
Although people have used hemp for clothing for many years, the technology to convert hemp into fibers is outdated and very energy-intensive. The reason the technology has not been updated is that the demand for clothing made from hemp is very low.
However, if the demand increases and the technology is renewed, hemp has great, green potential.
Advantage:
> Requires very little water and land to grow
> Incredibly durable
> The entire plant can be used.
Disadvantages:
> Outdated technology
> Energy-intensive to convert into fibres.
Elastane
Elastane is a synthetic material that adds stretch and flexibility to a piece of fabric. Elastane is a material that we at ELSK only use to a limited extent. We do this because finished products in which elastane is mixed are more difficult to recycle. When we use it, there is no more than 3% mixed in the material. Generally in clothing, it is very rare that you will see more than 5% elastane mixed into the material.
Advantage:
> Stretchable and flexible
> Can provide a better fit and more freedom of movement.
Disadvantages:
> Difficult to recycle
> Can make strong materials weaker.
ULD/Recycled Wool
Wool is a fantastic, natural material that has a wide range of benefits. Most wool comes from sheep, but it can also come from other animals such as llamas and alpacas. Sheep's wool is the most common, and the cheapest of the different kinds. The reason for this is that the other, more special types are often produced in smaller quantities, and therefore the price is also higher.
Products made of wool have a long shelf life and lifespan. Studies show that wool products can last for more than 20 years. Wool is therefore an important player when it comes to creating products with minimal climate impact. Due to the wool's durability, it is also optimal to use for recycling. Other advantages of the wool is that it is incredibly breathable. Therefore, it can be used both in winter and summer. In winter it keeps you warm and in summer it cools you down.
In addition to using new wool, we also use recycled wool of this kind. Wool can be recycled in many ways. It can be converted into its former long fibers and thus used to create new clothes, but it can also be converted into short fibers, which can then be used for, among other things, mattress filling. The long fibers are formed through a process where the wool is unraveled and restored to yarn. The yarn is then used to create new, durable styles.
It can be a maze to trace the wool all the way back to the sheep. At ELSK, we demand that all the wool we use is mulesing-free. We only use RWS-certified wool.
Wool is not just life and happy days. Like other materials, it also has its drawbacks. Wool comes from animals, and like humans, animals fart. It creates methane gases, which, as you probably already know from the beef debate, are a mess for the atmosphere. In addition, keeping sheep and other animals with wool requires space, and thus large areas of land. Like all living things, they also need to be fed, and feed production, as you probably know, requires a lot of space in the fields.
Advantage:
> Incredibly durable
> Easy to recycle
> It is difficult to curl
> Incredibly breathable
> Healthy for the skin
> Fireproof
> Absorbs moisture better than other materials.
Disadvantages:
> Comes from animals that produce methane gases
> Must be washed gently
> The animals require large areas of land.
Leftover yarn
Within the clothing industry, there is an incredible amount of waste. Waste that we don't want to be a part of. That's why we also make styles from leftover yarn. By using leftover yarn, new styles are created from something that might otherwise have been thrown away.
You may notice that our styles of leftover yarn have a special color - or rather a special pattern. This is because it is a composition of many different yarn residues. Together they create a unique and characteristic pattern. Therefore, no two styles are identical either.
Since there are leftovers, we can only produce and offer a limited number. You therefore don't have to wait too long to make a move if you've taken a liking to a style of leftover yarn.
Advantage:
> Less waste.
Disadvantages:
> Only a limited number can be produced.